Chemical Peels

Chemical peels are one of the oldest cosmetic treatments performed, dating back to ancient Egyptian times when natural acids derived from fruit and milk were applied to the skin in the name of beauty.

As knowledge and science have advanced, chemical peels are much more sophisticated and specific to a variety of skin problems, including uneven pigmentation, dull, dry or oily skin, wrinkles, blocked pores and acne.

There are three basic types of chemical peel treatments:

1. Superficial or light chemical peel, meaning that they act only on the uppermost layer of the epidermis with temporary results. These may include Alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA); glycolic acid 30-50% (from sugar cane), citric acid (from citrus fruits), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), or salicylic Acid (from the bark of the willow tree).
2. Medium chemical peel, addressing deeper concerns than the uppermost level. This type of chemical peel may target uneven skin tone, acne scarring, or fine wrinkles. These types of chemical peels for the face typically use trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and/or glycolic acid.
3. Deep chemical peel, going even deeper to remove skin cells in the epidermis and upper layers of the dermis. This type of treatment may be used for deeper wrinkles, scars, or growths. Phenol is usually used as the main acid type in a deep chemical peel.

Some peels combine acids in branded formulas and not all peels are the same, as different brands may add ingredients for additional benefits.

During a chemical peel treatment, a chemical solution is applied to the skin, much like a face mask. This removes the top layers of the skin to reveal new, fresh skin underneath. Different types and depths of chemical peel will use different chemical combinations to achieve the desired result, some of which are as follows:

AHAs promote exfoliation of the upper most layer of the skin, allowing healthier cells to move the top, and improving the texture and feel of the skin.

Salicylic Acid promotes exfoliation and unclogs blocked pores by breaking down oils. It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, so is particularly appropriate for acne prone skin. It is also suitable for treating the back and chest.

TCA (trichloroacetic acid), depending on the concentration, penetrates through the top five layers of the epidermis to the upper most layer of the dermis. Unlike with superficial peels, you will find that your skin becomes dry and tight during a medium-level treatment that uses TCA. It may darken before peeling. The peeling usually begins on day 3 and continues for 2-3 more days. Suitable for other areas of the body and for darker skin types.

A Phenol Peel is the deepest type of chemical face peel, and may only be performed once. It is only suitable for the face, and is not suitable for darker skin types. Sedatives and anaesthetics are required for this treatment, as well heart monitoring if the entire face is to be treated. This is because phenol is toxic to the heart if absorbed in large doses. Dramatic results on lines and wrinkles can be achieved, but the risks of either hyper or hypopigmentation, infection and scarring are greater as a result.

Chemical peel treatments can be used to treat the following:

• Dull, tired looking skin
• Pigmentation
• Oily or dry skin conditions
• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Acne prone skin
• Open pores
• Deeper peels required for deep wrinkles and skin laxity.

Your results and their longevity will depend upon a number of factors, including the type of peel, skin preparation and aftercare, and whether you have undergone a single treatment or a course of treatments.

With the exception of the deep Phenol peel, a course of initial treatments followed by regular maintenance treatments will achieve the best results over a longer period of time.

A variety of chemical peels for the face are available for general purchase on the internet. However, be wary that a great deal of knowledge and expertise is required in order to:

• Assess skin type
• Identify any contraindications (medical conditions or medicines)
• Diagnose the skin condition
• Prescribe the appropriate peel
• Prepare the skin appropriately
• Ensure appropriate aftercare to minimise risk and ensure good results are achieved safely.

The misuse of peels can cause permanent skin damage, increased and long term sensitivity, altered pigmentation, infection, and scarring. Instead of administering chemical face peels at home, we recommend using Save Face’s search function to identify a qualified and trusted practitioner near you.

You’ll be likely to experience different side effects depending on the type of chemical peel treatment you’ve undergone.

Superficial peels - you may have pink skin, but this will settle within hours. Your skin may become a little dry and tight, but you may not be aware of any obvious peeling.

Medium depth peels - you may have pink skin, your skin will feel tight and dry, and it may darken in patches prior to peeling, much like a sunburn peel. The peeling usually begins on day 3 or 4 and may last for a further 3 or 4 days.

Deep Peel - The skin remains extremely red for about 3 weeks, and this may be longer for some individuals. Some people experience extreme swelling, especially around the eye area. The skin will be raw whilst healing, and a strict aftercare regime will be prescribed by your clinician. Most people will take 14 days off work. Complete healing may take several months.

Your clinician will provide you with the appropriate skin preparation prior to your chemical peeling treatment, and will also advise on aftercare and treatment regimens/courses for the best results. Such advise will vary depending on the peel used.

Find the right practitioner for your chemical face peel with Save Face. Each and every practitioner listed within our search function have passed our rigorous 116-point assessment, meaning there’s no doubt that the person you’re choosing:

• Is who they say they are.
• Is a registered nurse/midwife, doctor, dentist or prescribing pharmacist with specialist training and insurance in each treatment listed on their profile.
• Uses licensed products sourced from reputable suppliers.
• Has all of the necessary paperwork in place to protect you from undue risk and harm.
• Has a safe and hygienic clinic.

Start your search here to find the right clinician for your chemical peel treatment.